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Apparel MOQs and colourways: the arithmetic that kills small brands

A small brand designs six styles in four colours and three sizes and then discovers it has just ordered seventy-two production runs.

Textiles18 Feb 20264 min read

The MOQ is a dyeing constraint

The minimum order quantity in apparel is not a commercial preference. It is physics. Dyeing a batch of fabric has a minimum below which the mill cannot hold colour consistency, typically several hundred kilograms per colour.

Industrial knitting machines with yarn cones in a textile mill
Every colour is a dye lot, and every dye lot has a minimum

Which means your MOQ is per colour, not per style. Three styles that share one fabric and one colour are one dye lot. One style in four colours is four dye lots and four minimums.

How to design a range for a small first order

Fewer colours, more styles. If you must have colour variety, use the same base fabric so that at least the dye lot for the fabric is shared, or use stock-dyed fabric the mill already holds, which removes the dyeing minimum entirely at the cost of colour freedom.

Sublimated print is the other escape hatch. Print on white polyester means one fabric, one dye lot, and infinite designs. This is exactly why so much sports apparel is sublimated, and it is not a coincidence.

Size ratios are not free either

A production run is cut in a size ratio. If you order 300 pieces across five sizes, you are running small quantities per size and the factory has to change the marker and the cutting, which costs. Ask for the ratio they can cut efficiently and design your buy around it.

What to negotiate instead of the MOQ

Small brands spend their energy trying to argue the MOQ down. It usually fails, because it is a real constraint. What you can negotiate is the fabric: ask what the mill already has in stock, in what colours, in what quantities. A stock fabric in a good colour can turn a 1000-piece minimum into a 300-piece one, and that is a real win the factory can actually give you.

Rolls of performance fabric on racks in a mill
Bulk fabric approved before cutting, or not approved at all
What to remember
  • The apparel MOQ is per colour, because it is a dye-lot minimum, not a policy.
  • Fewer colours and more styles on a shared fabric is how a small range gets made.
  • Sublimation on white polyester removes the dye-lot problem entirely.
  • Negotiate the fabric, not the MOQ. Stock fabric is where the real flexibility lives.

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